A Michelin Star experience in Malta

“I do better with food”, a favorite quote from my favorite movie My Best Friend’s Wedding. Explaining excellence in terms of food is difficult especially to this generation bent on a fast life, electronic gizmos, and not much interest in anything which takes more than a finger flip to operate. A sad testimonial apparent in increased obesity and diseases. But amid this sustenance chaos are individuals creating culinary marvels through the inherent love of the kitchen, the land, and heritage. That’s what Heute Cuisine is all about. Elevating food to an experience.

On the small Mediterranean island of Malta, a myriad of men and women are creating dishes inspired by the island’s culinary heritage which spans back to the Phoenicians. They are elevating their country’s Mediterranean cultural dishes into Michelin Star quality creations. These young chefs have taken their local ingredients and family recipes to another level of flavor, texture, and sophistication. They are also taking the island by storm.

Lately, my family took a journey into the magical culinary creations of Executive Chef Clint Grech, and Head Chef Gabriel Caruana at their Michelin Star restaurant De Mondion, in the old and silent city of Mdina, Malta. Located in the iconic Xara Palace, the restaurant overlooks the Mdina Bastions and the valleys below. The menu features Maltese staples like “ftira” a Maltese flat bread, octopus, homemade pasta cooked in the traditional Maltese fish soup “aljotta”, and local herbs like marjoram, and goat cheeses blended expertly into butters and sauces.

The delicate balance of flavors that are all inspired by the Maltese islands and their history, literally blow your taste buds to the next level of pleasure. A combination of cheese and smoked eel transformed a Binet into a symphony of flavors one hardly associates with the fried bread. A warm and crunchy thin crust, once bitten, it releases the savory, salty and sweet flavors that unexpectedly burst in one’s mouth. A blast of unexpected euphoria in one small bite.

This was not an evening where one eats and run. This was an evening of slowly tasting and enjoying each flavor as it hits the pallet from all directions. Coupled with an impeccable service and a knowledgeable staff we felt like we were on a culinary journey that was being created just for us. Each dish had a story, and each story interpreted in often whimsical finesse through local familiar ingredients found in traditional Maltese kitchens.

Malta boasts of five Michelin Star restaurants, all run by young executive chefs who created food as an extension of themselves, their lives, and the abundance of local resources. Executive Chef Victor Borg of Under Grain restaurant in Valletta takes inspiration from the tradesmen and merchants who had occupied Valletta. Executive Chef Jonathan Brincat founder and co-owner of the Valletta restaurant Noni, blends traditional flavors and creates his dishes from mercantile Malta of the past. Executive Chef Eoin Smith of restaurant ION Harbour overlooking the Valletta Grand Harbour hones in on Maltese flavors and colors found in local fresh vegetables and proteins. Executive Chef Tyrone Mizzi of the Corinthia Palace Hotel Restaurant in Balzan, combines the beauty of the historical surroundings with the tastes of the past, present, and the future. Last but not least is Executive Chef Clinton Grech of the beautiful De Mondion in the Xara Palace, Mdina. Amid the setting of historic beauty and elegance, the restaurant grows fresh herbs and ingredients on its property, where traditional Mediterranean dishes are elevated to an unforgettable culinary experience.

The inspiration and drive behind these chefs are their love of cooking and their urge to create quality local food as a tribute to Malta and what it has to offer. Their goal is always to respect the ingredients and showcase them in ways that give relevance to local cultural and historical traditions. Their passion started when young. Their vision combined hard work and talent which they harnessed for the sole purpose of sharing it with the rest of us. They cook from the heart and create from a deep desire to bring out the very best in simple everyday ingredients that are the heart and soul of every Maltese dish cooked by someone’s mother.

Like most famous chefs, Chef Clinton Grech of De Mondion, started his culinary journey as a teen. His passion for cooking took him out of the sink and into the kitchen. He worked long hard hours to learn and develop the skills that are required to create dishes that are unique and elevated into the world of Michelin Stars. But it was his love of cooking that compelled him to take the long road to success.

Michelin Criteria includes quality ingredients, mastery of cooking techniques and harmony of ingredients, personality of the chef through his menu and cuisine, value for money, and consistency of the food across the menu or menus. All five Michelin chefs in Malta have met this criterion and must strive even harder to keep it. A Michelin star can be taken away as easily as it is given. Michelin Star chefs do not stop creating at the first star, but their objective changes to keeping the first and gaining more. This is an exercise in self-discipline and self-motivation to be and remain the best.

For Malta to achieve not one but five Michelin stars is unbelievably incredible, especially since its cuisine has often been panned as undefined. Colonization impacted Maltese traditional cooking and eating habits. The Maltese are still tightly tied to typical British food traditions especially at Christmas time. Christmas Pudding, trifle, mince pies, are some of the traditional deserts still eaten, bought, and cooked. But young Maltese chefs are now bringing back the flavors of chestnuts, goat cheese, citrus, figs, and other local ingredients indigenous to authentic Maltese cuisine. Through their love and respect of local ingredients, they are bringing back old cooking traditions and tastes long forgotten.

Malta, smaller than some major cities in the world, has accumulated a treasure of culinary talent normally found in Paris, Rome, London, New York, and other major cities in the world. Malta and the Maltese should not only be proud of these upcoming chefs, but supportive of what has become a billion-dollar industry. Chef Grech and others are an inspiration to those who wish to pursue a dream, talent, or art that requires sacrifice, hard work, and ultimately success. They are pioneers in their own right, taking on the ordinary and transform it into the extraordinary. They are bringing back the spirit of entrepreneurship and courage that has been slowly disappearing in our culture and society.

There are other wonderful restaurants and creative chefs in Malta, and I am sure that going forward, we will be seeing more Maltese Chefs on the Michelin radar. In the meantime: thank you Chef Grech for a wonderful Michelin Star experience.

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